Old Fort, Seaview

We are often asked which is the ‘best’ restaurant on the Isle of Wight. And, of course, that is a question which is almost impossible to answer. For every couple wanting a sophisticated dinner in an intimate and romantic environment, there is a young family needing good value food and free children’s activities in a spacious venue where their charges can let off steam; which might be a problematic venue for someone with a hearing impairment. Some of you may want a dog-friendly cafe where you can feed your pooch tidbits from your traditional full English. Others simply crave a classic Sunday roast.

There are plenty of decent places for the latter; from a destination pub such as the Chequers to the ever-popular Sloop Inn, both with popular carveries. A friend recommended the Old Fort so we dutifully booked a table to see if their eulogising was valid or, like most Yorkshire puddings – simply a load of hot air and not much substance.

Since we last went, the pub has undergone a location-appropriate makeover – all bleached wood surfaces and sailcloth drapes; the airy venue was imbued with that yacht club/seaside cottage aesthetic. We sat at the captain’s table which had, like pretty much all of the seats, a view of the Solent, with the eponymous fort front and centre.

Unlike some pubs, the Old Fort has table service, both food and drinks, which meant more time could be spent on the important business of catching up on gossip than standing at the bar.

As well as the roast options of lamb, Isle of Wight sirloin of beef and nut, it was possible to choose from the regular menu plus the specials board. With plenty of fish options, this array floated our particular boat, plus some of the dishes were available in small or large portions, with prices to match, suiting customers with both reduced appetites and budgets.

We chose the small lamb roast, which was undoubtedly the equivalent of a big roast in other restaurants. It was of great quality; the roast potatoes were crisp, and the accompanying vegetables were properly cooked. Alas no cauliflower cheese, but there was enough variety with carrots, parsnips and broccoli. There was no scrimpling on the meat either, and the portion of lamb was succulent yet not fatty. The Yorkie was standard but, with a bit of charm, we managed to procure some extra gravy and one or two additional roast potatoes. Everything about the meal was terrific, and for the price it was hard to beat.

Cat’s salmon fillet only came in one size and for £19.95 was one of the venue’s more expensive dishes. The pan-fried fish was a good-sized portion; thick and moist, with tender flesh which flaked nicely. The pink slice lounged across a bed of crushed new potatoes and perky tenderstem broccoli. It was topped with caper and butter sauce, which was quite acidic, providing a pleasant contrast to the richly-fried fish. It was delicious!

Although we didn’t have room for pudding, we were allowed to finish our drinks and conversation without being hustled out for the next sitting.

The Old Fort is a charming venue for relaxed seaside dining, with plenty of choice, polite and attentive service plus very decent food – and, when the sun finally has its hat on, the waterside tables will be very much in demand. We are happy to recommend it.

This is the full-length version of a review that was printed in the Isle of Wight County Press.

Old Fort, Esplanade, Seaview PO34 5HB

theoldfortseaview.co.uk

01983 612363