Brown is the new black, gardening is the new sex, and gastro eating is the new nouvelle cuisine; welcome to the noughties. St Helens Restaurant, in the pretty village of (yup, you guessed) St Helens, has embraced this new metro-styling to create a fashionable and very popular venue.

St Helens Restaurant

Appearance is nearly everything, and St Helens Restaurant comes up trumps with its cool interior; pale wood flooring and white walls offering a pleasingly neutral backdrop to the splashes of colour provided by the locally painted seascapes on the walls.

Matt and Cat were lucky to get a table at short notice due to a last-minute cancellation but, dear readers, be advised that booking at this small and well-patronised restaurant is essential at all times.

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Once seated, Matt and Cat's party was given menus and had the specials explained, which was a nice touch. There were some mouth-watering dishes to choose from and, impressively, local provenance ingredients were identified. Matt and Cat were pleased to see meat from local farms and locally caught fish on the bill of fare. The good value too, caught the eye - mainland style, perhaps, but not mainland prices.

There was a good selection of starters; Matt chose slow-cooked belly of pork with apple and ginger sauce. Cat decided to save herself for the main course and declined a starter, but did not go hungry as a complementary platter of Italian bread with a dish of olive oil and vinegar was produced, to be grazed during the short wait.

Matt's pork was beautifully tender, the sauce was subtly spicy and the dish was accompanied by a small serving of rocket leaves drizzled with balsamic vinegar. A delicious combination of interesting flavours. There was even enough for Cat to have a little taster; she declared the pork 'lovely'.

Although tempted by the Dover sole, pigeon and pheasant dishes, Cat selected Brownrigg chicken with leek and steamed French beans. As anticipated, the chicken, with its creamy sauce, melted in the mouth. The al dente French beans added colour. The meat was daintily served on a patty of leek and potato.

Matt had a Godshill Park Farm Aberdeen Angus Sirloin steak served with tangy peppered mushroom, grilled tomato, a small salad and, as the menu proclaimed, 'proper' chips. Were they, perhaps, an alternative to improper ones? The generous slice of steak had a great flavour and good texture without any stringiness: reminding Matt that it's worth paying the premium for quality meat.

Very pleased with their food thus far, Matt and Cat's eyes were drawn by the waiter to the dessert menu. Again, a tempting range was on offer including chocolate torte with almond and pistachio ice cream, and plum frangipane with brown sugar ice cream. Cat dithered over the selection and eventually opted for plum and apple crumble with vanilla ice cream. Matt had no such difficulty as, having a glass of delightful Concha y Toro Chilean Merlot to finish, he chose to accompany it with a selection of English cheeses.

The crumble was piping hot, having obviously just come out of the oven. The topping was lovely and crunchy and the fruit very tasty. Matt's small but carefully served cheese selection included Stilton and smoked cheddar, with a rich chutney, freshly cut apple and celery alongside a warm sliced walnut loaf - this sounds odd but really was an interesting and enjoyable accompaniment to cheese.

For the entire time that Matt and Cat were in the restaurant it was busy with lively Christmas parties. Some of the other patrons were clearly regulars and were greeted by the chef, no less. The atmosphere was loud, cheerful and very enjoyable - although perhaps this might not always be the place for an intimate conversation.

St Helens Restaurant has a well-deserved good reputation. The food is outstanding, and the restaurant achieves a commendable emphasis on local produce whilst still presenting an interesting and varied menu at sensible prices. Matt and Cat are very happy to endorse it.

Visit the website: http://www.sthelensrestaurant.com/