Shhh, what's that sound? It's the sound of silence - Seaview's streets in winter.

One of
Matt and Cat's
favourites

Just the faint lapping of the Solent could be heard as Matt and Cat bimbled up the village's apparently deserted High Street to the only lighted window around.

The optimism of the flashing neon 'open' sign at Khrua Thai Orchid restaurant was quite heart-warming so, after a cursory peep through the glass in the door at nothing but a descending staircase (very reminiscent of La Scala) they went in. Not knowing what to expect, M and C were pleased to hear voices float up from the crypt and continued on their journey down to the surprisingly capacious basement dining room.

Matt and Cat often eulogise over the unmodernised décor of some of their favourite eateries. The Sportsman's Rest is determinedly a pub of the old school and the Bahar in Cowes has a delightful retro feel, bucking the trend of other Indian restaurants whose laminate flooring and concealed purple lighting has become ubiquitous. However, sometimes an interior makeover would not go amiss and, as they made their way past the dated wallpaper and decidedly 1970s interior, they decided that the Khrua Thai Orchid was a little overdue for a refurb. But they weren't there to give a critique of the paint job, what was the food like?

Review continues:

Having been brought drinks - Singha Thai beer for Matt and water for The Cat - by the charming waitress, your reviewers perused the very comprehensive menu. There were 65 items available and it looked like it might be a tough choice. So, deciding that they were too incompetent to choose wisely, they went for the prescriptive option of a set menu. This turned out to be a stroke of genius, as a succession of delightful dishes were presented to the table.

The starters were classic Thai fare; a little pile of dainty spring rolls, some scrummy sesame toasts with sweet chilli dipping sauce, and four chicken satay sticks. These were uncoated breast meat (not your standard battered buffet fare) and came with an excellent peanutty sauce and on a bed of finely shredded iceberg lettuce.

The next course was a real revelation. Although it was a set menu there was a choice from two types of soup. Matt and Cat elected to have one bowl of each soup, to get the maximum variety. They confessed to each other that they would never have ordered soup in a Thai restaurant and, if you feel the same dear reader, think again! The two soups were both exquisite in contrasting ways. The chicken in coconut with cauliflower was pale and thin with hefty chunks of meat, veg and mushrooms bobbing about in it, and a sprig of fresh coriander draped on its surface.

The first spoonful of the chicken in coconut had a wonderful creamy taste which unravelled into a spicy yet tender tang followed by an acidic kick. Each spoonful was the same; a clever layering of flavours accompanied by succulent chicken. Sublime.

Thankfully Matt and Cat had been asked whether they wanted the hot and sour soup mild, medium or hot. Being new to the hot and sour soup lark, they thought they'd break themselves in gently with the mild option. The hot and sour chicken soup was pretty poky - thank God they didn't choose the hottest option! It contrasted well with its creamy companion. Again, its flavours revealed themselves in a stratified way; the spicy gingeriness coming before the chilli kick. The chef said that hot and sour soup would normally be eaten with rice as a meal in itself; it was certainly substantial.

Throughout the meal the waitress had impeccable timing, delivering and removing dishes without making Matt and Cat feel either rushed or overly expectant. The whole experience was beautifully paced. Still, it wasn't too fast for Matt and Cat to overhear the loud conversation from the elderly couple dining nearby, discussing with some bemusement the possible purchase of a gift for a young relative. "No dear," said the lady patiently, "You can't buy records any more, they don't make them. You have to buy DVDs."

During the meal, M and C nodded their heads along to the gentle music. The gentle melodies of (presumably) Thai folk music reminded your reviewers of the more soporific twiddlings of Cat Stevens. However, during this aural equivalent of having one's neck gently rubbed, unexpectedly came a Thai version of 'Summer Holiday' which crept up upon your reviewers like a Ninja as its chirpy chorus assimilated itself into their brains. Alas by the time M and C realised what they were listening to, it was too late to capture the song in all its glory on the podcasting machine - so you'll have to imagine its crazy incongruity for yourself.

And the food kept coming... The next course had three dishes. The speckled sunset of beef red curry had the perfect amalgam of creaminess and spice, crunchy bamboo shoots and tender meat. Chicken with chillies and cashew nuts again had generous lumps of soft breast which complimented the texture of the nuts. Garlic king prawn with fresh mushrooms had the most intriguingly prepared crustaceans, split lengthwise and capped with their crusty tails. All dishes contained fresh ingredients and came in their own tasty sauce. To mop up the aforementioned two bowls of rice were also delivered, one plain steamed and the other egg fried. Even this accompaniment was visually considered; its little lumps of bright yellow yolk and white albumen revealing that the egg must must have been separated.

All in all it was a wonderful meal. Sure, the setting was a little tired but the food itself was faultless, and the service charming. Its extraordinary alchemy of tastes and textures was a pleasure to eat. Not wanting to leave, Matt and Cat had a pot of jasmine tea to cogitate over. As it was percolating, your reviewers sat back and patted their satiated bellies. The Khrua Thai Orchid restaurant may look unassuming but, as Matt and Cat discovered, it is worth the trip downstairs into the unknown.