The Ko Sing is a long-established Chinese takeaway in the small parade of shops that passes for the commercial hub of Lake. More often passed through on the way to anywhere else than a destination in itself, Lake can nonetheless boast at least five different takeaways. Ko Sing is amongst them, and is very well patronised by local people who will drive a considerable distance to visit - taking advantage of the convenient and large car park behind.

Matt and Cat visited Ko Sing in search of a quick meal for Matt, who was home late from some dismal work assignment. The takeaway is not new, but clean, small and bright, with many jolly decorations and plants, and a retro - yet very oriental - feel to it. Not like the swish, sparkling, chromed and soulless counters in some modern takeaways; the Ko Sing was unashamedly a traditional Chinese, with Asian satellite TV playing in the kitchen, and a very friendly greeting from the lady behind the counter.

Matt chose chicken with cashew nuts - a dish which he often picks in the Hong Kong Express. After a reasonable wait (during which time the large range of complementary tabloids was studied) the food arrived. Picking up their warm and steaming bundle, Matt and Cat left, with a courteous farewell from the proprietor.

Once taken home and dished out it was clear that the Ko Sing portions were very generous, with plenty of big chunks of chicken and mountains of toasted cashews. The tasty nuts were not soggy but crisp and flavoursome, just as they should be.

Matt also noted with approval that the food was not the powerful hoi-sin sauce mix that he was accustomed to at the Hong Kong Express, but a subtler, gentler, but more garlicky, blend. Like the establishment itself, the Ko Sing food reminded Matt not of modern zingy burger-bar style food and service, but of chinese takeaways from his childhood: arcane, rare and delicious.