Fashion magazines encourage people to buy the latest trends, suggesting cash, cheque or credit versions of celebrity-endorsed handbags or shoes. Newport's pizza parlours are similarly graded: Pizza Hut (cash), Pizza Express (cheque) and Olivo (credit).

Pizza Express is still the parlour of preference for Matt and Cat's pre-cinema bite to eat. However, its sophisticated interior (alcohol licence, jazz music and fresh flowers) is not really the place to spend an entire evening; and is sometimes rather compromised by kiddie parties. Thankfully not the sort of infant chimps that rampage unchecked over the gaudy carpets of Pizza Hut, but the children of the middle classes; more traditionally named perhaps and less likely to pick their olives off the pizzas: but like all children, still loud and just as likely to cavort about on the laminate flooring.

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So, for times when only the most grown-up atmosphere will do, Olivo is the top of Newport pizza food-chain, with its Buena Vista Social Club soundtrack, genuine Sicilian waiter and, ahem, grown-up atmosphere. Which is not to say children are unwelcome - very far from it, and in the Italian tradition kids can and do come along and join in the meal, especially in the daytime. Perhaps this is to assist them in learning to eat and drink like adults... as opposed, maybe, to the English tradition where the regrettable opposite sometimes seems to be the case.

Olivo welcomed Matt, Cat and friends on a busy Saturday night; the staff accommodatingly found your reviewers a table, despite them not having booked (a last minute cancellation freed up seating for four). There's not much room but if you're willing to squeeze in it makes for a great, lively atmosphere.

Almost instantly, the party was assailed by a merry waiter who was convinced he knew Matt - from Sicily perhaps? No? Then how about Glasgow? London? New York? ...Bembridge? This cheerful buffoonery prevailed throughout the meal. The finest Italian waiters traditionally have a unique role in this country - determined as they are to crack the English stiff upper lip and insist that their charges not only eat well but enjoy a good laugh and joke. The lively waiter at Olivo proved to be more than up for that challenge, and the mirth from other tables suggested that his skills were being very well applied.

Drinks arrived promptly along with the specials and regular menus. Matt's attention was drawn to the special prawn tagliatelle, whilst Cat and the others in the party chose from the regular menu. The selection of strictly Italian food covered everything from pizza, pasta dishes, risotto and seafood, plus salads, including some interesting-sounding lamb salad. Cat opted for spinach and cheese tortellini with a mascarpone and basil sauce with fresh tomatoes.

After a reasonable interval the beautifully presented meals arrived. Cat's big bowl of pasta was spectacularly creamy - the mascarpone added depth and texture. In fact, the sauce was so delicious and plentiful, Cat asked for a portion of garlic bread to mop it up; the steaming hot bread arrived in double-quick time. Matt's prawn pasta was sublime - the prawns were small and salty, the pasta was perfect and generous: the entire dish exuded seafood flavour whilst always staying the right side of the line between flavourful and smothered.

The dessert menu was similarly classy. Featured were Italian favourites such as tiramisu, fruit terrine, sorbet and strawberry and cream pudding. Matt did not regret having the fruit terrine with its interesting and sharp combination of fresh melon, pineapple, and passion fruit all encased in a delicate jelly and topped with a serving of sweet white chocolate ice cream. The presentation was exceptional, with spirals of fruit coulis and a shake of icing sugar decorating the plate. Matt and Cat decided not to try the featured Sicilian dessert wine - Terre Arse.

This pleasant meal was finished off by coffee and hot chocolate served with amaretto biscuits and a bit more cheek from the waiter who, by this time, was convinced that he'd seen Matt on the TV. Matt was indeed on television recently, strolling up the Yar estuary with Charlie Dimmock in 'River Walks'. However, to more guffaws from your thoroughly entertained reviewers and party, the waiter suggested, with appropriate gestures, that Matt was in fact huge on TV - on an adult pay-per-view channel... Not the sort of talk you'd want children like Kye and Charmaine or Thomas and Emily to hear; Olivo in the evening really is a great place for adults - great food, great atmosphere.